The Microblading Bible
The Microblading Bible
CORINNE ASCH
Copyright © 2016, Corinne Asch
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or
reproduced in any manner whatsoever without the written
permission of the Publisher and Author.
www.themicrobladingbible.com
www.lashandbrowlab.com
Book Design: Bluebobo
Preface
A while back, I took a 3-day course in microblading, and although the teacher was very good and very knowledgeable, I found the course, like all the courses I’ve taken, to be lacking in detailed information. I still had so many questions which were left unanswered.
I set out to find answers, but found there was nothing that could answer all my questions without taking yet another class and spending thousands of dollars more.
I emailed, messengered and Facebooked tons of people. I followed all the microblading boards, asked hundreds of questions and even discovered new ones I didn’t know I had. Then, there were a lot of opposing viewpoints where both sides made sense. Opposing viewpoints for how to properly heal the brows, or whether to numb or not before the first strokes. I looked for books on the subject, but found only one that was so general in its information, but it was more of a pamphlet than a book, with very little usable information.
Thankfully, research is what I love to do when I’m not microblading someone’s eyebrows. So, after a lot of exhaustive research, I was able to piece the puzzle together.
This book is the result of all of my research and is a detailed journal of all the things I’ve learned. By far the most helpful and informative were the women on the microblading Facebook groups. The women on these boards have been the kindest, most knowledgeable and most generous people I have met. They shared some tips and secrets you won’t find in any training, no matter how good. They were so ready and willing to share their knowledge. A true sisterhood.
To all of you, I thank you.
Writing this book has been like taking an advanced class in microblading, it filled in a lot of gaps and answered many questions.
My hope is that it will do the same for you.
Table of Contents
1: What is Microblading?
A new technology
2: Client Consultation
Determining if you are right for each other
3: Client Forms
All the legal forms you need
4 : The Importance of Proper Sterilization
Blood borne pathogens and OSHA regulations
5: Getting to Know the Fitzpatricks
The skin’s tones and undertones
6: Understanding Pigments
Choosing the right modifiers for the right skin type
7: To Numb Or Not To Numb
When, what and how to apply
8: Measuring The Brows
The best techniques for symmetrical brows
9: Choosing the Right Blade for the Job
Which blades to use for which skin types and outcomes
10: The Microblading Procedure
Stretch, angle and flow
11: After Care
The importance of proper care
12: The Healing Process
What you and your client can expect
13: Courses and Trainers
Chapter 1
What is Micro Blading?
Microblading is a semi-permanent eyebrow procedure that is carried out by a qualified technician using a special hand-tool which houses extremely sharp needles positioned in a way that resembles and operates very much likes a blade.
The required pigment is deposited into the superficial dermis of the skin with the disposable microblade which allows the technician to create crisp hair strokes that resemble natural eyebrow hairs.
Microblading differs from conventional semi-permanent tattooing by the very fact that it is a manual procedure. When using a hand held microblade, the color is deposited closer to the surface than when a machine is used leaving very fine and crisp hair strokes with no spilling under the skin.
Microblading is an advanced technique that requires a fundamental training for permanent makeup with no less than 100 hours of basic course. You must be properly trained so that you can carry the proper liability insurance, which is indispensible in order to protect yourself and your client.
It is extremely important to check your state’s requirements on licensing, education and sanitation.
Please do NOT attempt to microblade without proper training and insurance in place.
This book is intended to be used as a reference manual and as an adjunct to the physical training you’ve already received, not as a training manual on it’s own. Getting the proper hands on training in a physical classroom is the first and most important step to learning microblading. There is no substitute for proper training.
DO NOT SKIP THIS VERY IMPORTANT STEP!
ARTICLE
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What is microblading? Everything to know about this eyebrow trend
Rheana Murray
Sep. 5,2016 at 5:08 AM
TODAY
Eyebrow trends come and go, from thin and sharp to bold and bushy a la Cara Delevingne and basically every other model who’s been hot in the past few years.
But the lastest trend we can’t get enough of is microblading, a new tattoo technique that fills brows out or reshapes them by drawing on tiny lines that look like individuals hairs.
We know what you’re thinking: tattooed eyebrows? No way. But hear us out. “Microblading leaves brows looking natural, not scary”, said Jen Terban-Hertell, co owner of East Side Ink, the celebrity-approved tattoo parlor in New York City.
“It sounds terrifying, and there’s this stigma of grandma’s blue arch eyebrows, but these are completely different,” she told TODAY Style.
Microblading is done with a hand-held tool—“it looks like an X-ACTO knife made out of needles,” she said—“that puts pigment into the skin, but doesn’t go as deep as a normal tattoo would. It’s also semi-permanent. Your microbladed brows should last between one and three years”, Terban-Hertell said, adding that 18 months is typical for most of her clients.
The procedure differs depending where you go, but she sees people twice—once for an initial appointment and then once the brow has healed for a touch-up.
“The actual microblading is problably the shortest part of your appointment,” Terban-Hertell said. “I spend a lot of time getting to know my clients and what they want, what’s realistic for their face and then drawing on them to make sure they’re happy with the shape.”
“I work with the brow bone and the structure of the face and make sure the eyebrows are moving when you’re making expressions and they’re on the right part of your face,” she added.
But be warned that microblading is more expensive than drawing your brows on every morning: prepare to spend at least $500 and that appears to be on the low end for the service. I don’t need to warn you not to pick a technician by the price. Quality matters. It’s also a bit painful, but nothing that would scare most people away. “it feels kind of like plucking,” Terban-Hertell said, adding that she numbs the brow area before microblading (and, hey, maybe that’s a small price to pay for having “eyebrows on fleek,” but that’s your call.)
The procedure is still relatively new to the United States, but Terban-Hertell suspects it’s about to become a “craze.” And if you follow any beauty buffs on Instagram or you’ve somehow stumbled upon the #microblading hashtag already, you might argue the craze has already begun.
“It’s extremely poplular in other countries and just now getting popular in the states,” she said. “Most of my clients haven
’t heard of it, or they’re just hearing about it now. But in the next year or so, it’s going to be all you’re going to hear about. Terban-Hertell herself is just starting to see the impact the service has had on her clients, who find her mostly through word of mouth.
“When I started doing this, I thought it looked fun,” she said. “But it’s funny, the one thing I hear most often from my clients is that it’s life-changing, which is not a quote I thought I would hear when talking about eyebrows.
“There are women who won’t leave the house if their eyebrows aren’t drawn in,” the artist added. “Or they’ll avoid certain activities like a beach day or something that will cause their brow to sweat off or wipe off. But (after microblading) they can go to the pool or to Bikram yoga or whatever it is. This has turned out to be so rewarding because it changes the way people feel about themselves.
CHAPTER 2
CLIENT CONSULTATION
This is where the journey begins.
You meet, you talk about expectations and limitations. You analyze her skin, her medical history and, finally, her brows. You decide if you're the right fit.
It is best to have the consultation about a week or two prior to the procedure so that the client is able to best prepare her skin as per the Before Care Instructions you will provide her with.
The first, and I believe, the most important thing to do is get their medical history. Certain conditions can be worked around while others make it impossible. It is important to know which are which. For example, did you know that a thyroid condition can affect the way the pigment colors heal, making them less predictable?
The following conditions can't/shouldn't be worked on:
Skin that keloids
Sunburned skin
Persons on Chemotherapy
Pregnant or breastfeeding
HIV or hepatitis
Eczema or psoriasis on the brows
Moles or birthmarks on the brows
An open wound
I always have the client bring me pictures of eyebrows she likes. I have her try to look at faces that resemble hers to keep her realistic about what will suit her best and to get an idea of what kind of eyebrows she sees for herself (I know there are men who microblade their eyebrows, but since 99% will be women and for the sake of ease,
I will refer to the client as female for the rest of this book. Sorry guys).
Now, it’s time to look at different eyebrows and to pick one that you both feel will be right for her.
It is important to take the shape of the face into consideration. As a general rule, a long face will do better with a straighter brow to give the illusion of a shorter face.
Oval faces do well with softly angled brows
Square faces need soft curves to soften their sharp angles
Heart-shaped faces do well with low rounded arches which create a natural look while a high arch brow will elongate a short face.
Round faces do well with high arches which give the illusion of elongating the face while adding angles as well.
Diamond-shaped faces do well with medium high soft curves
Bringing the brows too close together will create a masculine and authoritative look. This may be good for the male clientele. Spacing them a little further apart will make eyes that are too close together seem less so.
For more detailed information on the right eyebrow shapes, visit:
www.eyebrowz.com.
It’s important that you both come to an agreement on which brows you will be giving her at the consultation for 2 reasons:
1) Your client has time to think about the shape and change her mind if need be.
2) In case you both are unable to come to an agreement on the proper shape for her face as you see it.
Let’s say she wants something that you know will not suit her and you don’t want your reputation to get damaged by putting out work that you know is subpar. It is better to make the decision to go your separate ways at the consultation, than on the day of the appointment where you have already booked out 2 hours or more of your time.
So now you’ve agreed on the shape of the brow and you’ve determined that she has the right skin type. You’ve talked about the color and decided on the right one. At this point, you can do a patch test behind her ear, if you so choose. Some do, some don’t, the choice is between you and your client. Unless it is a requirement by your insurance company, you are not required to give one. Having said that, it is always a good idea. It is better for her to have a small reaction behind her ears, than two huge ones above her eyes. If you do chose to give a patch test, one little scratch with pigment that is as light as possible behind her ear is all it takes. Remember not to apply any pressure as the skin back there is really thin. Once that’s done, you go over each of them before care instructions with her and give her a copy for her to take. You explain to her what the microblading process is; the importance of proper after-care and what to expect from the healing process. You take a non-refundable deposit and book her an appointment.
Chapter 3
Client forms
Medical History Form
Before Care Instructions
Possible Risks & Hazards Form
Tattoo Consent Form
Pigment Lightening Release Form
Pigment Lightening After-Care Form
Model Photo Release Form
After-Care Forms
Before Care
Do not work out on the day of the procedure
Do not drink too much coffee on the day of the procedure
Do not tan (no sun) for one week prior to the procedure
Do not take aspirin, niacin, vitamin E or ibuprofen 24 hours before procedure
No alcohol the night prior or on the day of the procedure
Any waxing or tinting of the brows should be done 3 days prior
No botox for 4 weeks prior to the procedure
It is best to do a scrub 3 days prior to the procedure
Stop using any Retin-A or AHA products for 2 weeks prior to the procedure
No lasers or chemical peels for 1 month prior to the procedure
No microdermabrasion or dermaplaning for 2 weeks prior
Tattoo Consent Form
I ______________________________________________________ (Client) hereby consent to and authorize _________________________________________________ (tattoo artist ) to perform the following procedure:
_______________________________________________________________
I have voluntarily elected to undergo this treatment/procedure after the nature and purpose of this treatment has been explained to me, along with the risks and hazards involved _______(initials).
Although it is impossible to list every potential risk and complication, I have been informed of possible benefits, risks, and complications. I also recognize there are no guaranteed results and that independent results are dependent upon age, skin condition, and lifestyle. _______(initials)
I understand that this is a 2 and sometimes 3-step process and I will be required to return no later than 60 days after initial procedure for further treatments to obtain the expected results. Anytime past the 60-day period will require payment. _______(initials)
I have read and understand the post-treatment home care instructions. I understand how important it is to follow all instructions given to me for post-treatment care. _______(initials)
I have also, to the best of my knowledge, given an accurate account of my medical history, including all known allergies or prescription drugs or products I am currently ingesting or using topically. ________
I acknowledge that the proposed procedure involves risks inherent in the procedure, and have possibilities of complications during and/or following the procedure such as: infection, poor color retention and hyper-pigmentation _______(initials)
I have read and fully understand this agreement and all information detailed above. I understand the procedure and accept the risks. All of my questions have been answe
red to my satisfaction and I consent to the terms of this agreement. I do not hold the esthetician, whose signature appears below, responsible for any of my conditions that were present, but not disclosed at the time of this skin care procedure, which may be affected by the treatment performed today.
_____________________________________________________________________
Client Name (printed)
______________________________________________________Date__________
Client Name (signature)
______________________________________________________Date__________
Technician/Tattoo Artist